Our current Cook the Books Club selection is Love & Saffron: A Novel of Friendship, Food, and Love by Kim Fay1. The novel, set on the West Coast in the early 1960's, tells the story of the friendship between two women that develops through the exchange of letters started by Joan, who writes a fan letter to Imogen and encloses a packet of saffron (zafferano) and a recipe. From there, we follow the development of their friendship with the sharing of personal life details and food observations and experiences. It is a reminder of times when communication was slower and, in some respect, better savored.
During the course of the novel, Joan starts exploring the food scene of Los Angeles and Imogen's husband learns to cook, aided, in part, by a friendship that develops between him and Angelo Pellegrini, whose The Unprejudiced Palate ("a book on bread and wine in relation to life") was a Cook the Books Club's selection some years ago2.
There are a number of foods mentioned in Love & Saffron and some recipes, none of which I wished to replicate. Instead, Joan's love story with Mateo and her appreciation, through him, of Mexican food, reminded me of a dish I had wanted to make for a while: chimichurri. I thought it would be great on Francis's (Imogen's husband) omelettes. Except that, once I re-read the article that sparked my interest3, I realized the sauce is from Argentina, not Mexico: too late, my mind was set and chimichurri it was.
Once I started reading more about chimichurri — including an article about it by Barbara Hansen, the food writer who was the inspiration for the novel's character Joan4 — I realized the red version of it (Chimichurri rojo) sounded even more interesting and would be a seasonal choice, given the abundance of both bell peppers (peperoni) and chili peppers at the farmers' market. For this recipe for the first time I purchased peppers in the medium range of the Scoville scale. In the photo, you see the chili peppers on the bottom right corner: a jalapeño (left) and a Macedonian pepper5 (right), which I think is exceptionally pretty.
As usual, after reading several recipes6, I did a bit of experimenting in my kitchen with available ingredients and below is my version of the sauce. I made both a chopped version and a partially blended one. I honestly don't have a definite preference: blending makes a sauce that can be more evenly distributed and tones down the color, but I like to taste the small bits of roasted pepper.
Print-friendly version of briciole's recipe for Red chimichurri
Ingredients:
- 1 red bell pepper on the small side (to be roasted before use)
- 1 cloves garlic, minced
- 1/2 jalapeño pepper, minced
- 1/2 Macedonian hot pepper, minced
- 1 tablespoon lemon juice
- 1/2 tablespoon red wine vinegar
- 1/2 ounce / 15 grams fresh parsley
- 1/4 teaspoon ground cumin
- 1/2 teaspoon sweet paprika
- 1/8 teaspoon fine sea salt, to taste
- 1/4 cup / 60 ml extra-virgin olive oil
Note: recipes instruct to use jarred roasted peppers, but this is pepper season so I use a freshly roasted pepper and freshly harvested chili peppers.
Heat the oven to 400 F / 200 C.
Place the bell pepper on a baking sheet, on one side. (For efficiency's sake, I either roast several bell peppers or, if I need only one, I roast it together with other vegetables.)
After 20 minutes, give the bell pepper a half turn. Continue roasting for another 15-20 minutes. The bell pepper is ready when it is slightly collapsed and the skin is charred in patches and soft. If it doesn't look ready, let it roast for a few more minutes. When it is ready, take it out of the oven and let it steam for 15-20 minutes in a paper bag, a closed container or on your cutting board, under an upside-down bowl.
In the meantime, mince the garlic. Trim the chili peppers, making sure to remove all the seeds, and mince them. Set these ingredients aside.
With your hands, remove the stem and seeds from the bell pepper and peel it. The steaming process makes the skin easy to slip. Chop the roasted bell pepper and place it in a small bowl. Add the minced garlic and chili peppers, the lemon juice and vinegar, stir well and let the mixture sit for 10 minutes.
For the chopped version: In the meantime, finely chop the parsley (I use a mezzaluna for this step). Add the chopped parsley, the two spices and the sea salt to the mixture and stir well, then slowly pour the olive oil while stirring.
For the blended version: Whiz the parsley briefly in the small bowl of a food processor. Add the mixture, the two spices and the sea salt to to the food processor and pulse several times. Slowly pour the olive oil and pulse some more until the desired consistency is reached. I recommend to leave some texture.
For both versions: Letting the sauce sit for at least an hour will allow the flavors to better blend. I like to prepare it several hours or the night before, keep it in the refrigerato and take it out ahead of time so it is at room temperature by the time I use it. Taste the chimichurri right before using it and add a bit more salt, if needed.
Serves 4.
Chimichurri is traditionally used on meat (carne), which is not what I eat, so I've been using it on other dishes, including egg, roasted corn, roasted vegetables and green salad.
1 The book's page on the publisher's website
2 From briciole's archive: Broccoli al Parmigiano-Reggiano (à la Angelo Pellegrini)
3 "Chimichurri in a hurry" (North Coast Journal)
4 Article on chimichurri on Hansen's site TableConversation
5 Macedonian hot pepper
6 A recipe for Red chimichurri and another one
Click on the button to hear me pronounce the Italian words mentioned in the post
or launch the chimichurri rosso [mp3].
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This is my contribution to the current selection of our Cook the Books hosted by Deb of Kahakai Kitchen. (You can find the guidelines for participating in the event on this page.)
FTC disclosure: I have received the table linen free of charge from the manufacturer (la FABBRICA del LINO). I have not and will not receive any monetary compensation for presenting it on my blog. The experience shared and the opinions expressed in this post are entirely my own.
bell pepper, chili pepper, parsley, sauce, Argentinian cuisine
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chimichurri rosso
Arrivati alla lettera O del nostro viaggio nel mondo degli ingredienti ho scelto di preparare una salsa con olio d'oliva. Era da un po' di tempo che avevo in mente di fare il chimichurri, salsa verde tradizionale dell'Argentina. Nel leggere varie ricette, ho scoperto che ne esiste una versione rossa (chimichurri rojo) che utilizza peperone dolce arrostito e peperoni piccanti.
Essendo stagione di peperoni, in questo periodo ho una ricca scelta al mercato del produttore e per questa ricetta per la prima volta ho comprato dei peperoncini piccanti: un jalapeño verde (in basso a sinistra) e un peperone piccante della Macedonia1 (Vezena piperka, a destra), che penso sia proprio carino.
Come al solito, dopo aver letto alcune ricette2 e sperimentato con gli ingredienti a disposizione, vi presento la mia versione della salsa. L'ho preparata con gli ingredienti sia tritati a mano sia parzialmente frullati (vedi foto in alto). Non ho una preferenza: nella prima versione sentite i pezzetti di peperone arrosto e il colore è brillante. La seconda versione si distribuisce in modo più uniforme ed ha un colore più smorzato.
Ingredienti:
- 1 peperone rosso non molto grosso (da arrostire prima di essere utilizzato)
- 1 spicchio d'aglio
- 1/2 peperoncino jalapeño verde
- 1/2 peperone piccante della Macedonia
- 1 cucchiaio di succo di limone
- 1/2 cucchiaio di aceto di vino rosso
- 15 grammi di prezzemolo fresco
- 1/4 cucchiaino di cumino in polvere
- 1/2 cucchiaino di paprika dolce
- 60 ml di olio extra-virgin di oliva
- 1/8 cucchiaino di sale fino, q.b.
Nota: le ricette che ho letto indicano di usare del peperone arrosto in barattolo, ma questa è la stagione dei peperoni quindi io uso un peperone colto e arrostito e peperoncini freschi dal mercato del produttore.
Scaldate il forno a 200 C.
Adagiate il peperone su una placca da forno. (Per amor di efficienza, io cuocio diversi peperoni allo stesso tempo oppure ne cuocio uno insieme ad altre versure). Arrostite il peperone per 20 minuti, poi giratelo di 180 gradi.
Arrostitelo per altri 15-20 minuti. Il peperone è cotto quando la pelle è scura e in alcune zone distaccata dalla polpa. Se necessario, arrostirlo per qualche altro minuto. Chiudete il peperone in un contenitore dotato di coperchio o in una busta di carta e fatelo riposare per 15-20 minuti,
Nel frattempo, tritate l'aglio. Mondate i peperoncini, assicurandovi di rimuovere i loro semi, e tritateli. Mettete da parte questi ingredienti.
Rimuovete il gambo e i semi dal peperone e pelatelo. Taglietelo a pezzettini e mettetelo in una ciotola. Aggiungete l'aglio e i peperoncini tritati, il succo di limone e l'aceto, mescolate e fate riposare il composto per 10 minuti.
Per la versione tritata: Nel frattempo, tritate il prezzemolo (io uso la mezzaluna per questo). Aggiungete il prezzemolo tritato, le due spezie e il sale al composto preparato in precedenza e mescolate bene, poi versate a filo l'olio mentre mescolate.
Per la versione frullata: Tritate brevemente il prezzemolo nella ciotola piccola del robot. Aggiungete il composto preparato in precedenza, le due spezie e il sale alla ciotola e pulsate diverse volte. Versate lentamente l'olio d'oliva e pulsate di nuovo fino a quando il composto assume la consistenza preferita. Suggerisco di non arrivare ad un composto totalmente omogeneo.
Per entrambe le versioni: Fate riposare la salsa per almeno un'ora, possibilmente diverse ore. (Io la preparo la sera prima). Refrigerate la salsa e tiratela fuori in anticipo in modo che sia a temperatura ambiente quando la servite. Assaggiate il chimichurri subito prima di servirlo e, se necessario, correggere il sale.
Porzioni: 4
Tradizionalmente il chimichurri accompagna la carne, che io di fatto non mangio, quindi lo sto utilizzando per condire altri piatti, come uova al tegamino, mais dolce arrosto, verdure arrosto e insalata.
1 Peperone piccante della Macedonia (in inglese)
2 Una ricetta per il chimichurri rosso e un'altra (entrambe in inglese)
Contribuisco il mio chimichurri rosso con oliva dell'olio d'oliva dall'Argentina alla lettera O di Un mondo d'ingredienti evento creato dall'instancabile Aiu' di Trattoria Muvara
FTC disclosure: Ho ricevuto gli articoli di lino gratuitamente dall'azienda produttrice (la FABBRICA del LINO). Non ho ricevuto e non riceverò alcun compenso per presentarli sul mio blog. Le opinioni espresse nel post sono interamente personali.
I enjoyed the presence of Angelo Pellegrini in this book too! Your chimichurri looks delicious. I think it makes a fabulous pairing with the egg. Thanks for joining in!
Posted by: DebinHawaii | September 25, 2023 at 12:32 PM
Your picture looks so delicious! Would be good with a bean dish as well as the corn and eggs. A Mexican version of chimichurri would be a Salsa Verde with tomatillos.
Posted by: Claudia | October 03, 2023 at 01:10 AM
That chimichurri with the perfectly cooked egg looks delightful.
Posted by: Wendy Klik | October 05, 2023 at 09:26 PM
Thank you, Deb. I hope Pellegrini would have approved the sauce :)
Thank you, Claudia. I like the look of tomatillos but have used only once: I must change that. Thank you for the suggestion :)
Thank you, Wendy :)
Posted by: Simona Carini | October 07, 2023 at 12:26 AM
I agree I didn't find anything actually in the book that cried out to me to make. This choice suits just fine!
Posted by: Delaware Girl Eats | October 08, 2023 at 04:50 PM
I am happy about the destination my exploration led me to, Cathy: it's nice to have a versatile sauce in my repertoire :)
Posted by: Simona Carini | October 09, 2023 at 07:54 AM
What a vibrant twist on the classic condiment, bursting with the bold flavors of herbs and spices. Your recipe promises to elevate any dish,
Posted by: Aurelio Johnson | February 23, 2024 at 11:17 PM