The current Cook the Books Club selection is A Cook's Tour, Global Adventures in Extreme Cuisines . Some editions of the book carry the subtitle In Search of the Perfect Meal, which feels more appropriate as it is a theme that recurs in the memoir.
At times, Bourdain writes with deep sensitivity and shares insights in what he saw and experienced, like his observations of Vietnamese people or his homage to the many Mexican immigrants who work in restaurants in NYC. The book comes alive in those moments and made me wish it contained a lot more. He makes some references to his mental health, which of course now appear under a different light. What made this a hard book for me to read are his tirades (for example, against vegetarians and non-smokers) and descriptions of animals turned into food.
One theme Bourdain touches on several times, particularly when he describes his time in Vietnam, is the great flavor of dishes made with fresh ingredients and consumed immediately. Here we are in full agreement. My visits to farmers' markets are the most important inspiration in the kitchen. Summer produce is a rich source of ideas. A couple of weeks ago, I saw the first Tromboncino squash1 of the season and rushed to buy it. Much to my delight, some local farmers grow this type of squash. (In Italian tromboncino literally means small trombone, the musical instrument.)
Besides being eye-catching with its long, curvy shape, Tromboncino squash has a dense flesh and a delicate, pleasant flavor.2 Although it is harvested early and consumed as a summer squash, it is not a cultivar of Cucurbita pepo like zucchini and other summer squashes, but of Cucurbita moschata, like butternut squash. Like its famous relative, zucchetta has seeds only in the lower part of its body: the long neck is seedless (as you can see in the top photo).
The tomatoes in the photo are of a variety called Prairie fire. They have a subtle gold striping and deep red flesh. The dish can be made also with other types of tomatoes, like Early girl, which I used in an earlier rendition of the recipe.
Print-friendly version of briciole's recipe for Roasted tromboncino squash with tomatoes
Ingredients:
- 3 tablespoons / 45 ml extra-virgin olive oil, divided
- 1 1/2 pounds / 680 grams tromboncino squash
- 8 ounces / 225 grams tomatoes, like Prairie fire or Early girl or other meaty variety
- 3-4 garlic cloves, minced
- 1 tablespoon minced fresh leaves of winter savory or thyme or a mix of the two herbs
- 1/2 teaspoon Harissa spice mix, or to taste
- 1/2 teaspoon fine sea salt, or to taste
- Optional toppings, to be added when the dish is ready, just out of the oven: nutritional yeast (which keeps the dish vegan) or freshly grated cheese (like pecorino toscano)
Heat the oven to 375 F / 190 C.
Distribute half of the olive oil on the bottom of a 3 quart / 3 liter (13"x 9" x 2" / 33 x 23 x 5 cm) glass baking dish.
Wash the squash and cut it into slices (no more than 1/2 inch / 1.25 cm thick), then pile 2-3 slices and cut into 1/2 inch / 1.25 cm cubes, adjusting your cutting to accommodate the curves of the squash. Quarter the tomatoes lengthwise. If using elongated tomatoes, like Prairie fire, halve them crosswise. If using larger tomatoes, like Early girl, slice them.
Place all the vegetables (squash, tomatoes, garlic) in the baking dish, sprinkle with the herb(s) and harissa and drizzle the remaining olive oil on top, then stir to mix. Place the baking dish in the oven. After 20 minutes, take the baking dish out of the oven and stir the vegetables. After another 15-20 minutes, check a piece of zucchini and gauge whether the dish is done or needs a few more minutes.
When the vegetables are ready, take the baking dish out of the oven, sprinkle the sea salt and stir. Taste and adjust the seasoning. Serve out of the baking dish or transfer onto a serving dish and serve.
Serves 5 as a side dish.
This is a flavorful side dish that brings together two of my favorite vegetables. Eating it is celebrating the simple pleasures of life: fresh, locally grown produce prepared with care.
This is a favorite photo showing the first tromboncino squash I purchased this season in the company of other "family members."
1 Wikipedia entry on Tromboncino squash
2 From briciole's archive: Tromboncino squash soup and Tromboncino squash and tomatoes (where the squash is cooked in a deep sauté pan)
Click on the button to hear me pronounce the Italian words mentioned in the post:
zucchetta al forno con pomodori
or launch the zucchetta al forno con pomodori audio file [mp3].
[Depending on your set-up, the audio file will be played within the browser or by your mp3 player application. Please, contact me if you encounter any problems.]
This is my contribution to the current selection of our Cook the Books hosted hosted by Claudia of Honey form Rock. (You can find the guidelines for participating in the event on this page.)
FTC disclosure: I have received the table linen free of charge from the manufacturer (la FABBRICA del LINO). I have not and will not receive any monetary compensation for presenting it on my blog. The experience shared and the opinions expressed in this post are entirely my own.
A simple, yet flavorful combination. And beautiful to boot!
I've been concentrating on getting lots of tropical perennials into the garden, and more trees. We've cleared and mulched out the adjoining acre, so quite a big canvas to fill in.
Posted by: Claudia | August 02, 2022 at 12:35 PM
Thank you, Claudia. I wish I could visit your beautiful garden :)
Posted by: Simona Carini | August 02, 2022 at 09:34 PM
Love the new produce you introduce us to here, Simona!
Posted by: Debra Eliotseats | August 03, 2022 at 04:50 PM
I have never seen nor tried tromboncino squash. I'm keeping my eyes opened next time I visit the Farmer's Market but I'm sure I can use any summer squash in this delicious recipe.
Posted by: Wendy Klik | August 03, 2022 at 05:16 PM
Thank you, Debra: I am always on the lookout for new produce varieties to try :)
You certainly can, Wendy: you will need to adjust the cooking time, depending on the type of squash you use. I hope you'll find a tromboncino squash at some point, so you can taste it :)
Posted by: Simona Carini | August 03, 2022 at 05:57 PM
I am with you about his distain for vegetarians but I do like many of his food insights. Some passages were indeed brutal. I have never seen squash like this. Wish I could get some great California produce here. Great recipe and I liked your Italian pronounciation link :-)
Posted by: Tina | August 04, 2022 at 08:06 AM
I've been waiting to see your post since seeing this dish on FB. I too am a sucker for fresh summer produce. We don't have the luxury of getting veggies like these year-round, so everyone including me lusts for them when they are in season. Right now it's fresh tomatoes and peaches. Delaware is renowned for both its traditional yellow peaches and the white ones which are SO tasty.
Thanks also for flagging my CtB failed attempt at joining the roundup. Don't know what went awry, but I'm so glad you flagged me & I got to be included.
Posted by: Delaware Girl Eats | August 04, 2022 at 10:03 AM
I've never seen this lovely squash in farm markets around here, but I'm going to keep my eye out. They look fabulous.
Posted by: Frank | Memorie di Angelina | August 06, 2022 at 08:47 AM
Thank you, Tina. There are so many varieties of squash to be grown: just yesterday at the farmers' market I found two I had never seen before. I think in some cases farmers are cautious about growing new things, as customers may not be open to try them. Sometimes, with farmers I know well, I ask :)
I hope you find it, Frank. Just yesterday at the farmers' market I found another variety of summer squash related to Tromboncino. I can't wait to try it :)
Posted by: Simona Carini | August 15, 2022 at 07:44 AM
No worries, Cathy. I'm glad it worked out at the end. Peaches are also high on my list these days: at least a peach a day is my summer refrain. I always keep my eyes open for new varieties of everything and I am usually rewarded. I'm thankful for farmers who decide to grow something new on their fields :)
Posted by: Simona Carini | August 18, 2022 at 07:04 AM
I'm confused - the list of ingredients includes garlic, yet the directions do not include. Is garlic part of this recipe?
Posted by: Diane | September 24, 2022 at 02:40 PM
Dear Diane, thank you so much for your comment, which prompted me to clarify the recipe's instructions. Yes, garlic is included in the recipe and I referred to it, together with squash and tomatoes, when I instructed to place the vegetables in the baking dish. The reference being unclear, I added the specifics in parentheses. Thank you again!
Posted by: Simona Carini | September 25, 2022 at 12:17 AM