cecamariti (handmade pasta shape)

spindle-shaped, delicate cecamariti (literally, husband blinders)

No husband was hurt in the making of this pasta. Blinding here is used in the sense of dazzling. Cecare is a dialectal form of the verb accecare. Mariti is the plural of marito, husband.

In Comfort Me with Apples by Ruth Reichl, the current selection of our Cook the Books Club, there is a good amount of one person trying to dazzle another (not necessarily a husband). While reading the book, I remembered seeing an entry for cecamariti ¹ in the Encyclopedia of Pasta by Oretta Zanini De Vita: it was time to learn more.

There are at least two types of pasta called cecamariti. The special characteristic of the one discussed here is that it is made with bread dough. When one thinks about it, it makes sense that, in an environment in which women made bread at home, a piece of dough would be used to make pasta.

Finding a recipe was a bit of a challenge, as those in Italian instruct you to get "500 g of bread dough", while the one in English² uses active dry yeast. I decided to try using some of my sourdough starter (pasta madre). Later, I made the dough using instant yeast. Below I give both recipes.

The procedure I use to shape cecamariti is personal, based on Zanini De Vita's description and the drawing in her book. You can see my hands at work in the video below:

  

As usual, I recommend to start with a small amount of dough (impasto), so you can give yourself time to learn the hand movements without being overly worried about how much more dough is waiting to be processed.

ready for the fork

The pasta cooks quickly and profits, in my opinion, from a light sauce. In the photo above you see it dressed with my usual tomato sauce, but I have also made it with chèvre melted with a small amount of butter and also used it in my recipe for poulet yassa³ (Senegalese chicken).

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Print-friendly version of briciole's recipe for cecamariti (handmade pasta shape)

Version 1: cecamariti using sourdough starter

Ingredients for refreshing the starter (see below for timing):

• 1 ounce / 28 g sourdough starter
• 2 ounces / 56 ml water at room temperature
• 2 ounces / 56 g King Arthur Flour all-purpose flour (this is the flour I use to make bread)

Ingredients for the pasta dough

• 1.5 ounces / 42 g prepared starter
• 1.5 ounce / 42 ml water at room temperature
• 1/2 ounce / 14 g stone-ground whole-wheat flour
• 2.5 ounces / 70 g King Arthur Flour all-purpose flour
• 1/2 g sea salt

Version 2: cecamariti using instant yeast

Ingredients for the pasta dough

• 1.5 g / 1/2 teaspoon instant yeast
• 2 ounces / 56 g water at room temperature
• 1/2 ounce / 14 g stone-ground whole-wheat flour
• 3 ounces / 85 g King Arthur Flour all-purpose flour
• 1/2 g sea salt

Ingredients for the dressing:

• 1/3 cup / 80 ml tomato sauce made with strained roasted tomatoes (detailed in this post)
• Freshly grated 1/2 ounce / 15 g Parmigiano-Reggiano

Note: I recommend weighing all ingredients.

Version 1: cecamariti using sourdough starter

Preparing the starter
The evening before you plan to make the pasta, when you refresh your sourdough starter, put in a small container the starter ingredients.

Cover the container and let the starter ferment in a draft-free place (in my case, the top of the refrigerator) until the following day, when you'll make the pasta dough.

How to make the dough for version 1 of cecamariti
Weigh the starter and water in a small bowl and stir to loosen the starter. Add the rest of the ingredients and stir to make a shaggy dough. Cover the bowl and let it rest for 5-10 minutes.

Empty the bowl onto a kneading board lightly floured and knead the dough until nice and smooth. Lightly dust a bit of flour on the board to prevent sticking. The final dough should be supple, not sticky.

Clean and oil the bowl. Letter fold the dough and place it in the bowl. Cover tightly and place in a draft-free place. How long it takes the dough to rise depends a lot on the room temperature. (As our house is quite cool, I usually place the bowl in the oven turn it on to proofing for a few minutes, then turn it off. If it is a sunny day, our living room becomes warm as the sun turns the corner, so I put the bowl there.) It takes several hours for the dough to be ready for the next step (in my case, usually 6). Keep this in mind and run your test so you can estimate when to mix the dough so the pasta is ready for the meal of choice. See also the timing for Version 2 below.

Version 2: cecamariti using instant yeast

How to make the dough for version 2 of cecamariti
Weigh the yeast and water in a small bowl and whisk lightly. Add the rest of the ingredients and stir to make a shaggy dough. Cover the bowl and let it rest for 5-10 minutes.

Empty the bowl onto a kneading board lightly floured and knead the dough until nice and smooth. Lightly dust a bit of flour on the board to prevent sticking. The final dough should be supple, not sticky.

Clean and oil the bowl. Letter fold the dough and place it in the bowl. Cover tightly and place in a draft-free place. How long it takes the dough to rise depends on the room temperature also in this case, but it is a shorter time, in my case usually 1 1/2 hours.

the leavened dough (made with starter) turned upside-down:
it is ready to be shaped

How to shape cecamariti using either version 1 or 2 of the dough
The dough is ready when a dimple made on the dough with your fingertip persists. Lightly flour your working surface and a wooden board where you will place the cecamariti.

The dough and the resulting pasta are delicate so use a light hand in handling them and minimize the need to move them around. I line up the cecamariti on a wooden board that I can then bring close to the cooking pot.

Working on the kneading board, roll the dough into a thick salami and cut it into 2 pieces. Keep one covered while you shape the first. Roll each piece into a snake 1/2 inch / 1.2 cm thick in diameter, then cut into 1/2 inch / 1.2 cm long pieces. As this is bread dough, hence elastic, it will tend to shorten after you stop rolling. Hence, I roll one section of the snake at a time, cut a few squares and shape them, then roll the next section and so on.

While you want the surface where the dough and the shaped cecamariti rest to be lightly floured to prevent sticking, you want the area where you are rolling the dough and shaping the cecamariti free of flour otherwise the dough will slide on it.

Place a small piece of dough under your index and middle finger. Start rolling gently and once you have a cylinder, separate the fingers so the ends start being tapered. Move to using the index and middle fingers of both hands to obtain a spindle-shaped cecamarito 2 1/2-3 inches / 6.5-7.5 cm long. Gently transfer to the floured board, making sure the cecamariti don't touch each other, or they will stick. Shape the next piece.

Repeat until you have used up the prepared dough.

When you are half-way done shaping the dough, you may want to start heating the water.

How to cook the cecamariti
Bring a small pot of water to a rolling boil. Since the pasta cooks quickly, prepare the sauce before you start cooking the pasta. In my case, I place the tomato sauce into a small skillet and warm it up over low heat. I also grate the cheese.

Add some coarse salt to the pot of boiling water, stir and then with the help of a bench scraper slide the cecamariti  in it gently but quickly. The time needed to cook them is quite short. The pasta puffs up and floats as it cooks. Taste it for doneness after one minute.

Drain the pasta using a slotted spoon and drop in the skillet with the tomato sauce. Turn up the heat to medium-low and stir delicately for about half a minute. Sprinkle half the grated cheese and stir to distribute. Remove from the heat, sprinkle the rest of the cheese and stir. Plate and serve immediately.

The recipe makes two small portions (served as Italian first course).

cecamariti ready for the plate

This pasta is a pleasant surprise: tender and light, it has become an immediate household favorite. I have a preference for the one with starter, which is airier and tastier.

A reminder that there is a page on the blog where you can browse the complete collection of handmade pasta shapes, some of them of my own creation.

¹ cecamariti in the Encyclopedia of Pasta by Oretta Zanini De Vita
² recipe for cecamariti by Jenn Louis
³ recipe for poulet yassa (Senegalese chicken)

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This is my contribution to the current selection of our Cook the Books hosted by Deb of Kahakai Kitchen. (You can find the guidelines for participating in the event on this page.)

The roundup of the event.

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This is also my contribution to the 23rd edition of Novel Food, the literary/culinary event that Lisa of Champaign Taste and I started some time ago and that I continue to host.

The roundup of the event.

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Click on the button to hear me pronounce the Italian words mentioned in the post:

cecamariti

or launch the cecamariti audio file [mp3].

[Depending on your set-up, the audio file will be played within the browser or by your mp3 player application. Please, contact me if you encounter any problems.]

pasta, Italian cuisine

Comments

[Diane P.]

Your handmade pastas never cease to amaze me. You are a true artist! Thank you for the posts.

[Simona Carini]

Thank you for your kind words, Diane. I am glad to read you enjoy my posts.

[Rachel (Rachel's Kitchen NZ)]

Oh, what a lovely story about this pasta - when my books come out of storage must read Comfort Me with Apples again. I do so enjoy Ruth's writing!

[Simona Carini]

Thank you, Rachel. Glad you enjoyed the post.

[Deb in Hawaii]

A great dish for the book Simona. It's such a unique pasta--both the shape and the inclusion of the bread dough. It looks amazing with that sauce--very dazzling and for not just husbands either. ;-)

[Simona Carini]

Thank you, Deb. This was a fun pasta project.

[Frank @Memorie di Angelina]

Pasta with leavened dough is a new one for me. Definitely have to try this! Love the new look, by the way. Very snazzy!

[Simona Carini]

It was a new one for me as well, Frank, but now I am wondering whether I can also make other shapes with it. Thanks!

[Debra]

Ah, love your homemade pasta and you always find a connection for it with your CTB posts. (Hooked up with Novel Foods for the first time with my CTB post as well.)

[Simona Carini]

Thank you Debra. I guess it is the Italian in me. And thanks for contributing to Novel Food!

[Alicia (foodycat)]

How wonderful! I've made a type of gnocchi that uses a choux paste, so it puffs up when you boil it, so I am sort of imagining that but with a sourdough tang.

[rachel]

Very witty post. Husband blinders, indeed! Love the new pasta shape.

[Simona Carini]

That sounds right, Alicia, though the sauce's flavor prevails. Thanks!

Thank you, Rachel.

[Wendy, A Day in the Life on the Farm]

Wow Simona.....I am soooooo impressed. What a lovely dish and your instructions are concise and easily understood. Thanks.

[Simona Carini]

Glad you enjoyed the post, Wendy :) Thank you for your kind words.

[Delaware Girl Eats]

Simona -- your pasta repetoire continues to amaze me! cathy from Delaware Girl Eats

[Claudia]

Great recipe and instructions. I often make extra dough when preparing for bread and then do a pizza, but what a great idea to use it for pasta. Looking forward to a Hawaii demo. :)

[Simona Carini]

Thank you, Cathy.

Thank you, Claudia. Let me know if you try to turn some of the extra dough into pasta. Me too :)

[Amy]

Oh! Those look so yummy! They remind me of dumplings...but with yeast :)

[Simona Carini]

Thank you, Amy. They are kind of yeasted dumplings, yes.