In my recent post on homemade Jarlsberg, I mentioned "a couple of experiment in the aging stage." One of them was my first blue cheese (a.k.a., blue-veined cheese).
As you can see from the title, in Italian we don't say formaggio blu (blue cheese). My dictionary translates blue cheese with an expression that means gorgonzola-like cheese (formaggio tipo gorgonzola), gorgonzola being the justly famous Italian blue cheese.
I obtained freeze-dried spores of Penicillium roqueforti (a dark green powder) and chose a type of blue cheese that would not need a long aging, so I could assess the result relatively quickly. In the book 200 Easy Homemade Cheese Recipes by Debra Amrein-Boyes,1 I found the recipe for Fourme d'Ambert and chose it as my first foray into blue cheese territory.
In the Cowgirl Creamery Library of Cheese, Fourme d'Ambert is described as "the chocolate of blue cheese" (I didn't know this when I made the cheese: it would have provided an additional reason to make it). On this page, you can see that Fourme d'Ambert has PDO status (Protected Designation of Origin, AOC in French, DOP in Italian). Authentic Fourme d'Ambert carries the relevant label.
Making the cheese did not pose any special challenge. Penicillium roqueforti is added to the milk together with mesophilic culture at the beginning. After the cheese had completed its pressing and drying period, I did the second thing that distinguishes the making of blue cheese: I pierced holes through the cheese using thin metal skewers (previously sterilized). This step brings oxygen inside the cheese and allows the mold to develop and form the blue (blue-green, blue-gray) veins and patches that give the cheese its distinctive look and flavor.
For this step, I actually followed directions as stated in the recipe for blue cheese in the book Home Cheese Making by Ricki Carroll. I pierced the cheese from top to bottom and then let the cheese rest on its side (on a wooden, slightly concave support) in its aging location, which is a dorm-size fridge adjusted to keep a temperature of 50-54 F (one of these days, I will show a photo of it). I then gave the cheese a quarter turn on its side every four days so it would not become misshapen.
We tasted it after a bit more than a month of aging (the recipe says it is ready after four weeks), and I was very happy with the result: the balance of flavor and texture was totally to my satisfaction. As you can read on this page, Fourme d'Ambert is one "of the mildest of the blue cheeses," which suits me perfectly. I have never tasted the original Fourme d'Ambert, so I cannot describe how my rendition differs, but I can tell you that what came out of my first attempt is really good.
We've been eating it plain, on some of my homemade crackers and bread. A couple of nights ago, however, I cut tiny wedges, placed them on halved black mission figs and put them in the oven, under the broiler on low, just until the cheese and figs had warmed slightly. Sorry, no photo: I was too busy eating.
As you can imagine, I am planning to make another blue cheese soon. In the meantime, there are a couple of experiments in the aging stage, which will be ready for tasting in due time, so stay tuned for the next post on my cheese-making adventures (avventure casearie).
1 I refer you to the book for the recipe details (some apply to cheese making in general, some to the specific cheese).
Click on the button to hear me pronounce the Italian words mentioned in the post:
or launch the formaggio tipo gorgonzola audio file [mp3].
[Depending on your set-up, the audio file will be played within the browser or by your mp3 player application. Please, contact me if you encounter any problems.]
I am just in awe of your cheese making abilities! That looks incredible!
Posted by: katie | September 07, 2010 at 11:27 AM
Thanks, Katie.
Posted by: Simona Carini | September 08, 2010 at 04:23 AM
So cool this blog idea!!! :) :) :)
Greets from Italian food bloggers !
Posted by: Irene | September 08, 2010 at 12:42 PM
Thanks, Irene!
Posted by: Simona Carini | September 09, 2010 at 04:55 PM
ma dimmi un po' stai pensando di cambiare mestiere?? ;-)) non so quale sia il tuo attualmente, ma questa seconda attività non ti viene niente male!! baciuzzzzzz
Posted by: astrofiammante | September 10, 2010 at 06:31 AM
Ciao Astro. No, non sto meditando in tale senso. Vorrei pero' fare un corso per imparare dai professionisti. Magari il prossimo anno. Buon weekend!
Posted by: Simona Carini | September 10, 2010 at 07:56 AM
I am totally in awe! This cheese is amazing! It looks absolutely perfect.
Posted by: Foodycat | September 11, 2010 at 08:14 AM
I can't believe you make this delicious cheese. I mean I know you have, but it looks so difficult! You are amazing!I would love to take a course on how to make cheese!!
Posted by: Jann | September 11, 2010 at 09:10 AM
Wow! Simona what a masterpiece.
And with the figs, sounds heavenly!
LL
Posted by: Lori Lynn | September 11, 2010 at 01:16 PM
Thanks, Alicia. It was a great satisfaction. I hope you'll try to make it as part of your cheese-making adventures.
Ciao Jann. After I make it a second time, I will let you know if I really got the process down. I have actually never taken a class, so I am not a good source of information on the topic. I started with information I found on the web and then on books. The page Making Cheese at Home on my blog has a list of resources.
Thanks, Lori Lynn. The pairing with figs was indeed a nice idea.
Posted by: Simona Carini | September 12, 2010 at 07:14 AM
Wow, I hadn't looked at your blog in such a long time. This is really amazing! Congratulations, Simona. Really impressed.
Posted by: Marta | September 19, 2010 at 03:36 PM
Grazie, Marta. I really like this cheese and I am planning to make it again soon.
Posted by: Simona Carini | September 19, 2010 at 10:36 PM
complimenti, per ottenere questi risultati occorre una buona dose di passione,
e si ottengono
Ciao
Posted by: andrea | September 22, 2010 at 01:42 AM
Grazie, Andrea.
Posted by: Simona Carini | September 23, 2010 at 09:26 PM