[cliccare il link per andare alla versione in italiano]
This story starts with crème caramel. I had four egg yolks leftover from making a cake and I thought that it was time I tried to make crème caramel. I used the recipe for Classic Crème Caramel from the (recently purchased) book Luscious Creamy Desserts by Lori Longbotham: it is simple to make and the result is quite pleasing.
The translation in Italian is crema al caramello. However, we use the French name to refer to this dessert. The antique ice cream glass in which I served the crème caramel may be objectionable, but I find it irresistible.
The only minor change I made to the recipe was to substitute 1/4 cup of half-and-half with the same quantity of milk. As a result, I ended up with a cup of organic half-and-half leftover from the pint I had purchased. I also had a cup of organic whipping cream that I had bought with ice cream in mind. The half-and-half, the cream and a pint of whole milk all went into making cream cheese according to the recipe in 200 Easy Homemade Cheese Recipes by Debra Amrein-Boyes. The half-and-half was my idea: in the original recipe it is whipping cream — so that the starting mixture is made up of half whipping cream and half whole milk. The recipe also calls for mesophilic culture and liquid rennet1. As I mentioned previously in posts pertaining my cheese-making adventures, I use pasteurized milk (and in this case, pasteurized half-and-half and cream), never ultra-pasteurized or UHT. To read more about milk with respect to making cheese, consult my page on making cheese at home.
My dictionary translates cream cheese as formaggio fresco e grasso. More than a translation, that is a description of what cream cheese is, a fresh cheese with a high fat content. The name commonly used in Italy to indicate this cheese is Philadelphia, from the brand name. I remember my younger self being attracted to the small silver packages of formaggio Philadelphia and remember also not being impressed by it. The last time I purchased cream cheese was to fulfill this Daring Bakers' challenge in April of last year.
However, the book's declaration that "The typical supermarket variety just cannot compare" sold me on the idea of giving homemade cream cheese a try. The statement fits my experience. I drained my cream cheese for a longer time than indicated in the recipe. It was nice and creamy (can you tell from the photo below?), becoming somewhat stiffer after a sojourn in the fridge.
Part of the reason behind the attempt to make cream cheese, was the Daring Cooks' December challenge. My first batch of cream cheese was used up before I managed to find the time to make the challenge recipe. I then made another batch of crème caramel and another batch of cream cheese: both remakes made the household quite happy.
There is something particularly satisfying in serving some freshly made cream cheese over freshly baked bread. Neither is very complicated to make, both require some patience, but the result is worth every minute of effort.
With such a great cream cheese in the fridge, together with pastured eggs, and a hungry husband wondering about breakfast options, it was not difficult to think about preparing an omelet with a few small dollops of cream cheese as filling. I don't use butter to grease the skillet, due to a deeply rooted habit that makes me always reach for olive oil. That is what my mother does, and that is what I do. Maybe this disqualifies what I make from being called an omelet. Whatever its name, the response from the table ran along these lines: Will you promise me you will make this forever?
1 I refer you to the book for the details (some apply to cheese making in general, some to the specific cheese).
Click on the button to hear me pronounce the Italian words mentioned in the post:
formaggio cremoso fatto in casa
or launch the formaggio cremoso fatto in casa audio file [mp3].
[jump to Comments]
formaggio cremoso fatto in casa
Questa storia comincia con del crème caramel. Avevo quattro tuorli rimasti dalla preparazione di una torta e ho deciso che era ora che provassi a fare il crème caramel. Ho seguito la ricetta per Classic Crème Caramel nel libro Luscious Creamy Desserts di Lori Longbotham: facile da fare e risultato gustoso.
L'unica variazione che ho apportato alla ricetta è stata la sostituzione di 60 ml di half-and-half con la stessa quantità di latte. Half-and-half è un prodotto costituito da metà latte e metà panna: per legge, il suo contenuto di grasso deve essere tra il 10,5 e il 18%. Credo che corrisponda alla cosiddetta panna leggera.
Dopo aver preparato il dessert, mi sono rimasti 240 ml di half-and-half (una tazza). Avevo anche 240 ml di panna da montare (35% di grasso) che avevo comprato con l'idea di fare del gelato. A questi due ingredienti ho aggiunto 480 ml di latte intero e ho preparato del cream cheese secondo la ricetta nel libro 200 Easy Homemade Cheese Recipes di Debra Amrein-Boyes. L'utilizzo della half-and-half è stata una mia idea: la ricetta prevede l'utilizzo di metà quantità di latte e metà di panna. La ricetta richiede anche la coltura giusta e caglio in forma liquida1. Come ho notato in post precedenti, per la preparazione di formaggi io uso sempre prodotti pastorizzati (non ultra-pastorizzati o UHT). Per maggiori informationi sul latte in riferimento alla preparazione di formaggio potete consultare la mia pagina making cheese at home.
In Italia il cream cheese è conosciuto come formaggio philadelphia. A me di fatto non piace e l'ultima volta che l'ho comprato è stato l'anno scorso ad Aprile per fare una cheesecake particolare. Però la dichiarazione del libro che tra il cream cheese fatto in casa e quello comprato al supermercato non c'è paragone, mi ha convinto a provare. La mia esperienca conferma tale dichiarazione. Ho fatto drenare il mio cream cheese più a lungo di quanto indicato nella ricetta. Il risultato, piacevolmente cremoso, si è leggermente rassodato dopo aver trascorso un po' di tempo nel frigorifero.
Parte della ragione per fare il cream cheese era la preparazione del salmone in crosta. Dopo che la prima produzione di cream cheese era stata debitamente spazzolata, ho fatto dell'altro crème caramel e dell'altro cream cheese. Il cream cheese fresco è buonissimo spalmato sul pane fresco fatto in casa. E quando mi sono trovata a preparare una omelette per la colazione di mio marito (con uova bio fresche), ne ho messo un po' come ripieno. La reazione è stata qualcosa del tipo: Mi prometti che me la preparerai sempre?
1 Vi rimando al libro per i dettagli (alcuni riguardano fare il formaggio in generale, altri il particolare formaggio).
Wow, I would really like to make some cream cheese but I am not sure I understood how you made it. By the way, in Greece we also use only olive oil to cook and our omelets are perfect :)
Posted by: Ivy | December 20, 2009 at 12:16 PM
I am so interested in making cheese at home too, but right now I really don't have the time. I will have to start reading more about it, and thanks for the inspiration.
Buone Feste!
Posted by: Laura | December 20, 2009 at 11:29 PM
ai formaggi da spalmare è difficile che io resista, ma vedo che anche a casa tua c'è chi apprezza...e si prenota per il bis ;-)) bacio!
Posted by: astrofiammante | December 21, 2009 at 12:55 AM
homemade creme cheese? that. is. really. cool!
paz
Posted by: Paz | December 21, 2009 at 09:00 AM
That cream cheese looks so luscious. I'd like to try making it sometime, but I'm always uncertain about the rennet and all of that. And you put it in an omelet? Mamma mia!
The creme caramel is very elegant in its ice-cream glass.
Posted by: Lisa | December 21, 2009 at 09:28 AM
When are you having your cheese making classes? I'm flying out!
Posted by: Jann Mumford | December 21, 2009 at 03:43 PM
Hello
Its interesting to know about cream cheese and you have described it very well.I would like to make this cream cheese at home.Thank you very much for such information about it..
Posted by: green tea | December 22, 2009 at 04:06 AM
Ciao Ivy. Greece and central and southern Italy belong to what I call "the olive oil zone" meaning we cook preferentially with olive oil, rather than butter. As for the cream cheese, I refer readers to the book, which includes also important information on making cheese in general.
Ciao Laura. I hope you will be able to give cheese making a try in the new year. Buone Feste!
Ciao Astro. Devo dire che mio marito e' molto contento delle mie alchimie formaggesche.
Thanks, Paz!
Ciao Lisa. That's why I refer readers to the book: the chemistry of making cheese is fascinating and background reading helps understand it. Both cultures and rennet are important and also the timing of the various steps. Having a good guide through those makes the journey easier and the arrival quite festive.
Ciao Jann. I don't think I am qualified to teach a class, but if you visit, I'll be happy to do a demo.
You are welcome, Green Tea.
Posted by: Simona Carini | December 23, 2009 at 10:44 AM
What brand cream cheese would you recommend substituting with?
Posted by: Pete | February 03, 2010 at 12:18 PM
I am afraid I am not an expert on store-bought cream cheese. As I mention in my post, the last time I bought some was a long ago and I honestly don't remember the brand.
Posted by: Simona Carini | February 07, 2010 at 07:24 PM
interessante questo spalmabile il genere affascina sempre.
Saluti
Posted by: andrea | May 11, 2010 at 02:08 AM
Ciao Andrea. E' comodo averne nel frigo, perche' si puo' utilizzare in molti modi.
Posted by: Simona Carini | May 12, 2010 at 09:35 AM
simona io in frigo ho uno spalmabile col gusto del pecorino cosidetto coi vermi
un formaggio che dura 6 mesi in frigo.
naturalmente fatto da me in casa.
Posted by: andrea | June 23, 2010 at 02:54 PM
Ho avuto modo di assaggiare il pecorino coi vermi: e' eccellente.
Posted by: Simona Carini | June 28, 2010 at 07:16 AM
Ciao Simò, adesso c'e puoi visionarlo il vasetto appena prodotto,
Posted by: andrea | August 24, 2010 at 07:59 AM
Mi piace l'idea di metterlo in vasetto. Purtroppo trovare latte di pecora per me rimane una chimera.
Posted by: Simona Carini | August 27, 2010 at 08:31 AM