During our recent visit to Palermo, one day we ate lunch at the historical Antica Focacceria San Francesco, which has been in existence since 1834. Customers pay for their meal, get their receipt, then fill their tray and finally sit at one of the old tables with marble top in the inviting dining room. The menu includes traditional Sicilian dishes, like the involtini di pesce spada that were part of our meal.
Swordfish is readily available at the historical fish market we had recently visited, La Vucciria. I noticed that all vendors there display the prized fish in the same way, with the body laid out so that it is easy for them to make slices (really thin ones are needed to make involtini) and the head raised, so that the sword points up, as if ready for a duel.
The filling for the involtini is made of pangrattato (bread crumbs) seasoned with (as far as I could tell) pinoli (pine nuts), uvetta (raisins), ubiquitous fresh prezzemolo (parsley), succo di limone (lemon juice), sale e pepe (salt and black pepper).
The filled involtini are lightly oiled and rolled into bread crumbs, then kept aligned with wooden skewers and placed in a baking pan. Foglie di alloro (bay laurel leaves) are inserted in between the rolls. The end result is a delicious dish of delicate flavor. Since we were quite early for Italian standards, we had to wait a few minutes for the involtini to be ready: our reward was eating them hot from the oven.
At the Focacceria you can taste traditional Sicilian street food, like panelle (fritters made with chickpea flour) and arancine or arancini (fried balls of rice, meat sauce and peas). Across the square from the Focacceria there is a gelateria where you can top off your meal with an espresso, or Sicilian gelato served in a brioche.
This is my entry for Weekend Herb Blogging, a food blogging event started by Kalyn of Kalyn's Kitchen, hosted this week by Susan, The Well-Seasoned Cook.
Here is the roundup of WHB #105.
Click on the button to hear me pronounce the Italian words mentioned in the post:
or launch the involtini di pesce spada audio file [mp3].
[Depending on your set-up, the audio file will be played within the browser or by your mp3 player application. Please, contact me if you encounter any problems.]
I've been to the same place and eaten the panelle (my favorite food in Palermo). I also love Involtini di Pesce Spada but have only eaten it here in Catania. The way you've described it sounds exactly the same as what I had in one of my favorite restaurants here, Sicilia in Bocca ( http://www.siciliainbocca.it/ )
Posted by: Nicole | October 21, 2007 at 11:56 PM
Lovely sounding meal in nice historical place. I'd love to be there. ;-)
Paz
Posted by: Paz | October 22, 2007 at 12:24 PM
Oh, that sounds so wonderful! It's been a few years since we've been to Italy...time to go back for some proper Italian food!
Posted by: Katie | October 22, 2007 at 12:51 PM
Simona, thank you for sharing some of the tastes and terrains during your travels.
It was good of you to participate in WHB on such a short turnaround upon your return home. Thank you.
Posted by: Susan | October 22, 2007 at 06:44 PM
Did your husband remember to have that gelato for me? ;)
Posted by: Maryann@FindingLaDolceVita | October 22, 2007 at 07:07 PM
Several years ago I spent 4 days in Palermo with my 'palermitano' husband (now ex), and what I remember, aside from how beautiful Palermo is, is that in such a short time we couldn't possible eat all the delicious food we wanted to eat!
Posted by: anna maria | October 22, 2007 at 07:53 PM
I've been to Palermo but I know I had nothing to eat as wonderful as this! I must go again. Everything you described sounds fantastic. Hope you had a perfect trip.
Posted by: Kalyn | October 22, 2007 at 09:22 PM
Hi Nicole. I have to admit I have not had panelle, because I cannot eat fried food, but I know they are good.
Hi Paz: I hope you can visit it some time soon.
You are not that far, Katie, so maybe you should go.
My pleasure, Susan. The biggest issue was the internet connection.
Dear Maryann, my husband did not forget to have some gelato for you: stracciatella (vanilla gelato with pieces of dark chocolate) and pinolata (pine nuts). What do you think? I am planning to write a post about my husband and gelato during this trip, so stay tuned.
Ciao Anna Maria. Indeed, it is not possible to taste everything available in a short time. I wanted very much to have some reginelle again, and I did (I hope to add a photo to the post I wrote about them), but some other things that were on my wish list are still there, for my next visit.
Hi Kalyn. We had a fun trip. I hope you get to visit Sicily again and taste some of the traditional dishes.
Posted by: Simona Carini | October 22, 2007 at 10:12 PM
Oh yes! That's more than fine! Sounds delicious:)
Posted by: Maryann@FindingLaDolceVita | October 23, 2007 at 04:11 PM
This is elegant and gorgeous Simona. Great entry!
Posted by: Lucy | October 23, 2007 at 05:22 PM
Mouthwatering! I can't wait to try swordfish this way. And I can pronounce it too, thanks to you :)
Posted by: Lori Lynn @ Taste With The Eyes | October 24, 2007 at 07:59 AM
This sounded like a place that I need to visit on my next journey-Palermo must have been wonderful to see again. We so much enjoyed spending the time we had with you and your hubby in Cortona-our old legs and muscles were sore the next day!
Posted by: Jann | October 24, 2007 at 11:01 AM
Hi Maryann: indeed, it was.
Thanks Lucy.
Hi Lori Lynn: swordfish is actually my favorite fish and I can eat it prepared pretty much in any way. The involtini were a new experience, and a great one.
Hi Jann and welcome back. Cortona has indeed a rather steep ascent to the top of the hill. I hope the rest of your trip was fun.
Posted by: Simona Carini | October 24, 2007 at 02:23 PM
Sicily is on our MUST DO list!
It's an amazing place for culture, tradition, food, nature...
And your beautiful descriptions just make it more attractive! ^_=
Enjoy your time dear! ^_^
kusje ^.^
Posted by: fabdo | October 27, 2007 at 02:09 AM
Oh, my, those involtini look scrumptious. And I love the photo of the fish market. And now I want to try panelle. Thanks for sharing.
Posted by: Lisa | October 27, 2007 at 04:19 AM
Simona - these look appetitosi! I am not a big fan of spada, but I could certainly eat it this way. I will try it.
Posted by: Jeni | October 28, 2007 at 08:24 AM
Simona - these look so delicious!! I've been to Sicily twice never in Palermo though! I adore pesce spada and ate it nearly everyday:)
Posted by: lorraine@italianfoodies | October 28, 2007 at 02:33 PM
Hi Fabdo: it was certainly an interesting visit and I would like to go back and see more of the island. I was in the southern portion many years ago and have good memories.
Panelle are sold everywhere in Palermo. Lisa, can you get chickpea flour in your area? If so, I have a recipe for panelle.
Hi Jeni. I hope you get to try them and become a fan of pesce spada. Let me know.
Hi Lorraine. I adore pesce spada too, either simply grilled or with tomato, olives and capers. I can imagine eating it often.
Posted by: Simona Carini | October 28, 2007 at 08:31 PM
sei stata anche a Palermo? Mi devi raccontare del tuo mese italiano. Anche io sono tornata, sono stata benissimo. Dobbiamo anche riprendere il discorso della rubrica. Sentiamoci per email. Baci!
Posted by: Francesca | October 30, 2007 at 02:56 AM
Si', per tre giorni. Mi fa piacere sapere che sei stata bene. Ti scrivo presto. Baci.
Posted by: Simona Carini | October 30, 2007 at 07:59 AM